The Wine Merchant on a Sunday Afternoon
Friday, 1st February, 2013
- David Farmer
There is not much of a role for an old fashioned wine merchant these days. A buyer of wine hardly needs to move from a desk. The wines are already packaged and as long as the price appears right it's simply a matter of signing the purchase order. We treat our craft differently at Glug so I thought you might like to join Ben and myself on a Sunday afternoon wine buying excursion.
In early June, 2012, on a cold, wet, wintery Sunday we drove along Seppeltsfield Road, heading west, past our offices at Veritas-Rolf Binder searching for Lunar wines. We passed by Heritage and Whistler wines and the new Tscharke winery, down the hill that leads into the pretty hamlet of Marananga and the Gnadenfrei Church, halted, checked our map, then turned north up a steep track leading to Viking and Gnadenfrei wines. The road ended at a large tin shed which is the home of Lunar Wines.
The Malcolm Seppelt shed; home of Lunar Wines.
I know this country well as a few years back I had walked along the ridge line, past the large shed, examining a rock I call 'Barossa iron-stone'. This rusty-red coloured rock interests me for many reasons but for the early Barossa settlers was an important building stone. The vineyards planted on the slopes leading off this ridge are known to produce great fruit and one of these vineyards is so famous the crop can fetch $8000 a tonne, this being at the very high end for Barossa fruit.
We were there to meet Corey Chaplin who set up Lunar Wines in 2004. I had tried a few Lunar wines over the years but did not have much of an appreciation of the winemaking direction. Ben from time to time had run into Corey in the local Tanunda pubs. Over the last few years we had heard rumours that things had been a little tough so we accepted an invitation to look at the recent vintages particularly as it was mentioned a few barrels could be for sale. We are pleased when locals have favourable views about Glug and give us a call.
Inside Lunar Wines; Corey Chaplin (left) and Ben
When buying wine I am very interested in the background details of the maker as it helps in judging their enthusiasm for the craft as some become the real deal while others just lack the passion and it shows in the wines. I might add I have built an impressive record over many years of recognising rising stars.
The Making of a Self Taught Winemaker
Corey's parents had purchased a property in 1992 at Gnadenfrei which they called Viking Wines. Corey had been living in Port Adelaide and followed them to the Barossa in 1994 where he began work as an apprentice chef in the Barossa town of Angaston. Some four years later, when he almost had the chef's hat, the call of the wine business proved irresistible. Picking grapes for Rolf Binder led to having a go at making wine and in 1999 the first experiment began in his laundry where 100 kilos of shiraz was foot stomped in tubs, but ended in failure.
By 2000 Corey was picking grapes for Rockford, a starting place for many great winemakers. "I got to see all the best vineyards and by 2001 had been promoted to 'cellarhand'." Also In 2000 with a mate from Rockford they made a pinot noir with 300 kilos from a vineyard owned by Paul Lindner, of Langmeil Estate wines fame, 'way out west of Marananga'. This was repeated in 2001 though by now Corey was listening carefully to teachers at Rockford, not only Rob O'Callaghan but the great Chris Ringland also at Rockford.
With confidence growing Lunar Wines was started in 2004 with the winemaking moving to Rusden wines. Then on to his parents place at Viking and later up the road where he joined Malcolm Seppelt in his shed; this property adjoining Viking. In the mid 2000s Corey also worked a few vintages in Spain, guaranteed to keep interest bubbling.
I knew Corey was serious about his wine when he told me the moment of truth arrived in 2005 when he sold his house in Angaston to buy quality winemaking equipment. With a permanent winery now in the Seppelt shed the future was looking good as the wines had gained several excellent reviews and strong interest was coming from U.S. merchants. One of these, the U.S. importer Dan Philips of The Grapeful Palate gave Corey momentum in this market. Alas developing problems with this importer in 2008 engulfed a number of small Australian producers and for Corey exports ceased, and I suspect left him with some bad debts. This was followed by his parents selling Viking and leaving the Barossa.
For the next few years Corey found life had closed in but pleasingly got going again with the 2011 vintage and the good news is he's back at Rockford.
I'm quite unfazed by the unconventional path Corey has taken to become a winemaker and with a certain type of personality the more formal approach via one of our wine schools may stifle the imagination. The self taught path is OK but you must listen and understand the basic science.
It helps with the cash flow that he is back at Rockford and now makes Lunar wines in the long hours of the evening. This is the small of small business though you may be surprised to know Corey also picked the grapes for his 2011 and 2012 vintages.
Tasting the Wines
Lunar Wines; Corey Chaplin drawing wine from barrel
The thrill of tasting wines straight from the barrel, no matter how cold the day, is part of the joy of being a wine merchant. It is also the ultimate test as not only are you deciding if you do or do not like the wines, or some barrels and not others, but decisions must be made over what are you willing to pay. The problem with many big company wine buyers is that they are so scared of making an error that they only raise a hand to buy when the wine is so cheap they know they cannot lose. They actually have trouble determing the worth of a wine. To me that is not being a wine merchant. It works but not for a long term relationship.
Lunar Wines; ; Cory Chaplin and Ben tasting the wines on offer
Corey offered us the following:
Mataro 2011 - one hogshead from 10 year old bush vines hand picked by Corey from the sub-region of Marananga-Greenock.
'Deep bright colour; intense spicy aroma; full rich varietal palate.'
Cabernet 2011 - 3 hogsheads from dry grown 65 year old vines from his parents Gnadenfrei property.
'Deep colour; powerful fresh aroma; soft with great length. Very good'
Shiraz 2011 - 3 hogsheads from old vines 30% Greenock and 70% Marananga.
'Deep colour; fresh and sweet aroma; beautiful palate, elegant and long'.
We also looked at the barrels Corey is keeping for Lunar wines.
Then we tried a similar range of 2012 wines of the same varieties which at this stage are not on offer.
Later we made an offer and this was accepted. At this stage we intend to offer the cabernet and shiraz as is but it is likely we will blend the mataro with other wines we have been purchasing.
We continue to strongly recommend this style of wine to our customers as they are very true to the 'sense of place' and have been made in a simple manner.
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