"With the release of the film 'Mondovino', the battle between the 'garagistes', who see wine as a technical achievement, and the 'terroiristes', who see it as expressing the 'terroir', is out in the open. If any wine were to decide the case in favour of the 'terroiristes', it would be Burgundy. With a few insignificant exceptions, the vineyards are all planted with Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. And yet the wines are so varied that you could be forgiven for thinking each to stem from its own blend of grapes - which is to say that it is not varietal but 'terroir' that counts. And in the concept of 'terroir' we should include geology, climate, aspect and also custom and ceremony, from which, says Yeats, innocence and beauty are born."