A brilliant article sending up the current fashion of wine writers who manage to find aromas and tastes that simply do not exist.

"One of the last gargled, lip-smacked, parking her nose in a glass of her host’s finest recent vintage. Coming up for breath she gasped: “Raspberries... myrtles... heather... honeysuckle... I’m getting melons, with marram grass!" She turned eagerly to the great viticulturalist. He replied with the most charmingly imperious disdain: "Personally, I prefer my wine to taste of grapes."