This passage is from a chapter titled A Nose for Quality (May, 2004). The comment is made by Luca Turin, a sensory wizard and an expert on perfumes.

"What makes the great Caron perfume-I'm thinking of the old ones, Nuit de Noel and En Avion-quintessentially Caron is an interesting creamy marron glace fragrance that the perfumer Daltroff invented in the 1930's and used in every Caron fragrance. It's the equivalent of Guerlain's house recipe, a vanillic, powdery scent that Jacques Guerlain created in the same era and carefully kept secret.

'In a way, Sauternes is Guerlain and Jurancon is Caron. The great Sauternes do this delicious, fruity, big bouquet de fleurs thing, the style of Guerlain. These Jurancon's, on the other hand, really do belong to a different school of perfumery. Caron's signature was a chypre base with a soft, creamy sandalwood that gave you marron glace, a smell lying between the slightly sour note of fresh cream and the warm note of burnt dark sugar. Rum and cream together. That is the note I find in these Jurancons. I absolutely smell that'."